Last Tango (lesson) in Buenos Aires

Today we had our final tango lesson with Albano.  We did not focus on particular steps, rather we reviewed the nature of the three types of dances which form part of the tango family: the tango, the tango waltz and the milonga.  Wally and I have learned new techniques for each of these dance forms which will form the basis of our practice over the next few months.  We are happy that we felt confident enough to dance at milongas here in Buenos Aires.  There are many different venues and we visited a variety of locations. There are some extraordinary dancers here but the Porteños who dance tango well always demonstrate the same strong connection to the music as Albano.  For anyone interested in finding out more about Albano, you can visit his website: albatango.wix.com.

Albano and his girlfriend, Elisabetta.

The last day of tango classes.

An Evening at Leila's Home

Today was our last Spanish class - it is hard to believe that the time has passed so quickly.  Our teacher, Leila, has been excellent. We have learned so much, thanks to her great approach to teaching  Spanish.  On Monday evening, she and her fiancé invited us to have a meal with them. As is typical here, we were invited for 8:30 pm.  They also invited another student, Serena, a young woman from Italy who is here for a year teaching math.  Leila and Esteban were wonderful hosts.  They are charming and full of fun.  We had lots of laughs as we all talked in Spanish.  Esteban is a systems analyst for a clothing manufacturer. They had prepared tasty appetizers with wine and beer to begin the evening.  Later, Leila served the most amazing empanadas that she had made herself.  Empanadas are available everywhere in Buenos Aires and we have had a few, but none could compare to Leila's delicately crusted meat-filled turnovers.  Unfortunately, I did not take a photo, but when we return to Buenos Aires, I will definitely want Leila to give me a cooking lesson on empanadas.  It's good that she made a huge number of them as they disappeared quickly even after she brought out a second platter.  We contributed dessert from one of the thousands of confiterías in Buenos Aires which produce tempting sweets of all description. After eating, Leila had a Spanish game based on a local TV show.  This involved a series of questions on different topics about our individual likes and dislikes.  Each of us had to respond in Spanish and it was very funny.  All in all, it was a great evening, and needless to say, a late one.  We had to take a taxi home long after the subways shut down.

Leila and Estevan

Lots of smiles from this couple

Leila and her Halifax students

Glimpses of Last Week

Here are a few random photos from the past week which did not get into earlier postings:

Wally spots our Benz in a San Telmo antique shop window. It's one-sixth of the regular size but would hold an adult driver, and it has a gas motor in the back.

A group of students in smart uniforms by Casa Rosada.  School children all wear uniforms here.

The cartoneros demonstrate near Plaza de Mayo. These are the people who salvage cardboard for recycling to earn a living. Some cartoneros were businessmen who lost their livelihood due to the economic crisis in Argentina in 2001.

The zoo is closed due to labor issues but we peeked through the fence. Wally thinks it's a wallaby, and he should know!

Pink flamingos - another glimpse through the fence of the zoo.

A second visit to the Museum of Fine Arts, this time to the second floor which showed Argentine Art reflected against the political landscape of Argentina. Great stuff!

Works by Berni were fascinating

I liked this work, not sure of the artist.

This reminded us of some of Colville's art

Enjoying yet another coffee outside at the Delicious Cafe (thanks for the tip, Tara)

Art Installation along the street

An early birthday treat and toast for Wally, courtesy of David during our second visit to the restaurant  Melo. 

La Glorieta - a Milonga in the Park

Last night we went to our first outdoor milonga called La Glorieta de Belgrano.  We took the subway to the second last stop on our line and walked from there to a park several blocks away.  The milongas are held every weekend in a large gazebo with a polished dancing floor and a tango DJ.  Sometimes they have live music as well.  Last night there were a lot of people at this milonga, and at times we had to dance with very small steps.  The dancers here are more casually dressed, most in jeans and some wearing their practice shoes as I did.  There are three types of dances danced at milongas, each with a distinctive rhythm: the tango, the "milonga" which is a faster and more rhythmic dance, and the tango waltz. Fortunately, we were able to get a few pictures before the floor was crammed with people.  It was very pleasant dancing in the fresh air in this pretty neighbourhood called Belgrano.

Gazebo in the park

It takes two to tango!

Trying a new tango step

David and I dance a "milonga", a faster dance than the tango.

Note the polished dance floor.

Two Milongueros 

The floor gets more crowded as the milonga continúes.

Paseo el Rosedal (Rose Garden)

Buenos Aires is making a great effort to create more green spaces for its citizens and has an ambitious plan to meet to meet the World Health Organization standards for greener cities.  At present, the green areas are unevenly distributed, but in parts of Recoleta and Palermo, there are large parks and plazas.  Yesterday we walked from our Spanish lessons through the 3rd of February Park (often places are named after important historical dates) to reach the beautiful rose garden called Paseo el Rosedal. On the way we saw areas near the polo stadium where old sections of the city are being given new life.  The Paseo el Rosedal was designed by a French urbanist in 1912.  It is perfectly maintained with manicured lawns between large beds of roses. Fountains and an artificial lake enhance the setting. The rose garden is completely fenced so there are no dog walkers here! Over 12,000 roses make it one of the most beautiful and restful areas of the city. What a lovely respite from the heavy traffic areas with their noise and exhaust!

Polo Stadium

Living wall in the underpass of the train track en route to the park.

3rd of February Park

Artificial lake near rose garden

One of many large rose beds

Statues add to the elegance

As do fountains 

Paths wind around the various beds

Now is the peak season to visit the rose garden 

Time for a break

Red roses with white trellised walkways behind

A bridge over one part of the lake

A perfect rose

Or two

An area of statues honouring poets including Shakespeare

Museo National de Bellas Artes

Earlier this week, we spent some time in the National Museum of Fine Arts which is located fairly close to our apartment.  It has several works by well known international artists such as Degas, Gaugin, Rodin and Manet as well as many artists from Argentina.  Admission is free and there is a welcoming atmosphere.  We didn't have to check our bags at the door; the only items being checked seemed to be umbrellas.  We focussed on the special exhibit featuring works by Argentine artist Pérez Celis who was born in San Telmo, the barrio we visited earlier this week. Pérez Celis is famous here and internationally for his paintings, engravings, sculptures and murals.  We were allowed to take photos so, if you are unfamiliar with his paintings, the pictures will give you an idea of his style.  The following works are very large, the smallest probably around 6 feet by 8 feet.  We took photos of the works which we liked the best. 

Lunch in San Telmo

We visited the neighbourhood of San Telmo this week.  San Telmo is the oldest neighbourhood of Buenos Aires complete with colonial style buildings and cobblestone streets.  In the 1870's, just as it was developing into a thriving district, the area was plagued by yellow fever which killed over 10,000 people and drove the middle and upper classes to other parts of the city such as Retiro and Recoleta.  In more recent times, San Telmo has developed a bohemian flavour with various artists and artisans. Today, some areas look a little shabby, but San Telmo is loved by many and boasts a famous market, many antique shops and numerous cafes.  Tango is also popular in this barrio. We went to San Telmo to have lunch with a young woman we had met in Halifax at a tango workshop over a year ago. She teaches at the university here in Buenos Aires and was instrumental in recommending both our Spanish teacher and our tango instructor.  We were happy to reconnect with her at a great cafe near her home in San Telmo.

Rebecca and I having lunch

Hierbabuena Cafe - a delicious lunch eaten outdoors

Veggie Quesadillas - my order

Statue honouring Mendoza - the founder of Buenos Aires

Colourful Russian Orthodox Church in San Telmo

Plaza Dorrego 

Plaza Dorrego on Defensa Street 

Craftspeople by Plaza Dorrego

 Defensa Street

San Telmo Market

Inside the market

Looking up at the ceiling and the metal framework

The best coffee in town, so we were told!

 Defensa Street - important avenue in San Telmo. Note the cobblestones.

Bougainvillea on San Telmo street

Vegetation gone wild on a once gorgeous house on Defensa Street